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Supra Setup for Autocross

Writer: ckrampertracing
ckrampertracing
May 10
4 min read

Updated: Aug 6

My recommendation for purchasing a Supra and guidance on how to set it up for SCCA autocross in B Street (BS).


The Supra to Buy


Toyota Supra (A90) Stats

  • Engine: 3.0L inline-six (B58)

  • Horsepower: 382 hp

  • Torque: 368ft-lbs

  • Width: 73.8 inches

  • Wheelbase: 97.2 inches

  • Wheel Size: 19x9f and 19x10r

  • OEM Tires: 255/35-19f, 275/35-19r

  • Weight: 3351 lb


Manual (MT) vs Automatic (AT)

  • It's your choice. For autocross, there is no significant performance difference between the manual and automatic. If you plan to track your car, the automatic will definitely be faster.

  • Pros for the Automatic (AT):

    • Easier to launch

    • No chance of mis-shifts

    • For ProSolo's and any straight launch, the automatic will launch faster to 60ft by an average of .136s (in dry conditions) based on a comparison of over 300 launches between 2024-2025.

  • Pros for the Manual (MT):

    • #savethemanuals

    • More engaging/fun to drive

    • Manual Supra’s will almost always be in 2nd gear during an autocross run. Automatic Supra’s have shorter gearing and will be in 3rd gear for most of an autocross run after launching in 2nd gear. Depending on course speeds, sometimes the manual will technically have an advantage and sometimes the automatic will technically have the advantage. The automatic, will have an advantage in slow corners since they will downshift seamlessly to 2nd. In fast sections, the automatic will stay in 3rd, not needing to shift for any higher speed maneuvers. The manual will technically have an advantage in middle range corners. In any case, I believe the advantage for either car is negligible due to the excellent low-end torque produced by the B52 engine. Most of the “Advantage” for either car would be while in the “tracking out” phase of a corner where full power can’t be accepted by the rear tires. Additionally, I have also analyzed '25 Nationals data between P1 and P2 which confirms the insignificance of gearing. Buy the one you want, but I recommend the manual.



Trim Level

  • Although not required, I recommend getting the 3.0L Base model. The seats are nicer with alcantara in the center which hold you in the seat better. There are fewer electronics in the base model which means it's a few pounds lighter. Don't shy away from a Premium, however. The difference is not significant.

  • All special editions (excluding the MKV Final Edition) are allowed in BS, at the time of this post. Some have minor aero changes which you might prefer, but these are not needed for BS.

  • The MkV Final Edition is not allowed in BS since there were significant performance updates to the car and it is a limited run vehicle.


The Setup for Autocross


Keep It Simple, Stupid


Suspension

  • Shocks: I'm running on the OEM shocks, so I can't make an aftermarket recommendation.

  • Sway Bar: You will want a stiffer front sway bar. Eibach and aFe make suitable 29mm bars.

  • Sway Bar Setting: Well, I'm not going to spoon feed you everything. Go out there, test and see what you like best.

  • End Links: I recommend the aFe end links which have a more robust center section as compared with another popular brand. Always use a torque wrench when tightening. Buy a spare. Install with a method to remove preload in the bar at race weight.

  • Alignment: Maximize front camber by loosening relevant suspension bolts to tilt the knuckle. Install the OEM alignment repair knuckles [43211-WAA02 & 43212-WAA02] in the front which should add up to 0.5 degrees. Expect near 2 degrees of negative camber in the front with factory equipment. Toe and rear camber are your choice.

  • Exhaust: Meh [shrugs]. I still have the OEM exhaust. It's too quiet.

  • Nannies: OFF

Wheels & Tires

  • Wheels: OEM Wheels, or aftermarket 19x9+32 and 19x10+40 (±7mm offset)

    • If you get the AT, you'll likely want 18' wheels for the best gearing.

  • Tires Size:

    • MANAUL CARS: 275-35-19 for MT cars. You may be able to fit a 285-35-19s on the car, but check with your tire shop before purchase since they are difficult to mount. Recommend heat cycling if you get the 285s since they will be easier to mount. The car will accelerate with full power to 65 mph in 2nd gear and then creep up to 68 mph at redline.

    • AUTO CARS: 275-35-18 for AT cars. I have not tested 285s on the 18" wheel size. There could be contact with the strut or spring, but a spacer might resolve that issue.

  • Tire Brand: Bridgestone, Yokohama or Vitour (or current best super 200 treadwear tire). My winning runs at 2025 Nationals were on P1's (West, drove both tires...) and RE-71RS's (East).

  • Tire Pressure: Well, I'm not going to spoon feed you everything. Go out, test and see what you like best.


Misc


Conclusion


This car is awesome, both as a fun street car and for regional/national level autocross. The suspension is very soft which makes slaloms tricky, but it is a fun challenge. The MT has quirks but is still enjoyable to drive on the street, autocross and track. The wind buffeting is insane; buy the deflectors asap. Don't toil with the OEM wheel bolts for a year like I did; buy the stud conversion kit asap.



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©2020 by Charles Krampert.

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